20th Century Asian Pear Tree

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20th Century Asian Pear- Variety Information 

  • Experience the sweet juicy flavor of a freshly ripened Asian Pear with its explosive texture and crisp bite.
  • The most popular Asian pear, the 20th Century Asian Pear is also known as Nijisseiki.
  • The 20th Century Asian Pear is apple-shaped with medium gold skin.
  • It has the flavor and sweetness of pear with the crispness of an apple
  • Tree is a small, easy to grow, heavy bearing tree.
  • The pear fruit keeps well, up to six months.
  • The 20th Century Asian Pear tree is self-fruitful, or can be pollinated by Shinseiki, Bartlett, Hosui, or another Pear.
  • This tree is cold hardy, drought-resistant, heat tolerant.
  • Grafted onto OHxF333 semi-dwarf rootstock.
  • Approximate harvest period (for Central CA): August. 
  • USDA Zone 5-10, Requires 300-400 chill hours to set fruit. Protect when temperatures fall below -20°F.



  • Susceptible to fire blight and codling moth so seasonal maintenance is a must.
  • Fruit should be thinned to one per spur.
  • Plant 2 varieties for best pollination.
  • Unpruned trees will reach 2/3 of standard (about 12-18').
  • By pruning, keep any tree to any size.


  • No customer pick-up
  • We can ship our "Other Edibles" (non-citrus plants) and growing accessories to most states, including Alabama, Texas, Arizona or Florida. 
  • Sorry, we do not ship any items to the US Virgin Islands, Guam, Puerto Rico or to API/APO addresses, or to other countries at this time.
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  • The trees are approximately 2 years old.
  • Tree measures 3'-4' tall
  • Our trees are measured by trunk caliper.
  • Trunk size may vary slightly based on availability during the season.
  • Average trunk size is 1/2"-5/8".

How to Grow

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Location is key to the overall success of the tree and the quality of the fruit. Fruit trees prefer a location that has full sunlight exposure. Potted fruit trees are all grafted on hardy rootstocks to give you the best chances of success in a variety of soil types and climates. Choose a location that receives 8-10 hours of direct sunlight per day. This location should have well-draining soil.

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Prepare your planting site by digging a hole about twice the volume of your tree pot. If you notice that your soil is very hard, now would be the ideal time to perform a drainage test. You can test your soil drainage by filling the hole with water. If the hole takes more than 2 hours to drain completely then your soil is poor draining and will need to be amended. If your location is heavy in clay soil that drains poorly, consider mounding up above the native soil with compost and mulch and then planting in your well-draining mound. Once the hole has been dug, backfill with a 50/50 mix of compost and native soil so that the tree can sit flush with the native soil level.

Once your hole is prepped, you will want to press the tree pot sides and gently remove the tree from its container. Once removed, gently loosen the sides & bottom of the root mass with your hands. Then place the tree in the planting hole and backfill with more of your 50/50 compost and native soil mix. This mix is important to create a buffer zone of soil that is easy for your tree to root into while also introducing the roots to your native soil.

Now that your new tree is planted, it is time to give the trees a thorough soak. This step is very important to close any air gaps that may have been created while backfilling the tree.

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Post Planting Tree Care

Prune the canopy of your tree at this time. The goal here is to have a canopy that is roughly as large as your root mass. By balancing the root mass with the canopy, you will see much less dieback on your branches and a higher success rate with your new tree. If you want the fruiting wood to begin low, smaller trees may be cut back at planting time to a height as low as the knee (15-20 inches). Any remaining side limbs should be cut back to one or two buds. Larger trees may be cut above existing well-placed low limbs, or they too may be cut back low to force new, lower limbs. If this step is skipped, you will likely see low vigor from the first season, dieback from these long branches, or even complete failure to break dormancy.

Protect the trunk of your tree from sunburn, pests, and insects with IV Organics Plant Guard tree paint and foliar spray. Paint your newly planted tree from the ground up. This step is particularly important for our growers in the southwest where the climate and the intense sun tend to damage trees.

Spread 3"- 5” of wood chips or straw over the bare ground. Keep mulch away from the trunk to prevent the trunk from rotting. This insulating blanket will keep the roots of the trees warm and growing and prevent freezing and thawing of the soil. It will also keep the roots of the trees cool and moist through summer.

Stake trees that stand over 3' tall or in very windy areas for at least a year until their roots grab a firm hold of the soil. Tie the trunk to one or two stakes set beside the tree, using some soft material or padded wire. Allow for some movement of the trunk.