Black Jack Fig Tree

Fig trees are an excellent choice for both in-ground and container growing. Choose a location with at least 8 to 10 hours of sunlight. Fig trees will thrive in a variety of soil types but for the best results, you will want to plant your tree in a location with good drainage. When growing in the ground, avoid planting your tree up against the house as they have widespreading root systems.

To plant your fig tree in the ground, dig a hole deep enough to cover the root ball. We recommend digging a hole in a cone shape that is about twice the size of the current root mass and planting the tree to the center of the cone. If your location has heavy clay soil create a mound about 12” above the native soil line with a better draining soil mix of compost and mulch. At the center of the mound, dig a cone-shaped hole and plant your tree.

For container growing, you will want to create a soil mix that is 5-parts coarse bark, 1-part coarse perlite, and 1-part premium potting soil. This soil mix is designed for maximum drainage which reduces the chances of root disease.

When transplanting check for roots collecting at the bottom of the pot. Gently loosen up the roots at the bottom to help them quickly extend into the surrounding soil. Tamp (pack) down soil several times while backfilling the hole to avoid air pockets. After planting, water the tree to settle the soil firmly around the roots. Make a basin for future watering.

The #1 reason for fig loss in the first two years is poorly draining soils. Become familiar with how your location drains and mound up to 12 inches above the soil line where drainage is poor.
Figs are quite drought tolerant once established, but water management in the first two years is critical.

Good water management includes regular irrigation and mulching to get trees established.
Regular irrigation on established figs helps to improve size and juiciness. Once established figs require little water.

In general, fig trees do not require regular fertilizing. Excessive applications of nitrogen can have a negative effect on fruit quality. The one exception is for figs grown in containers, which should be fed three or four times a year with a balanced fruit tree fertilizer.

A thick layer of compost applied to your soil either around your fruit trees is an effective way to improve fertility immediately and over the long term as the compost breaks down. Compost comes in many forms and strengths. You may be inclined to jump for the strongest composted chicken manure but will burn your tree. Stick to well-composted steer, horse manures, or a blend of plant compost as they provide ample nutrients for trees without the risk of burning them.

Unpruned fig trees can spread 25’ or more. Figs will produce a thick dense canopy with little pruning. Figs can be held to any height with regular pruning. They make an ideal plant for espalier or as a patio container plant. Many varieties bear an early crop called a “Breba” crop usually in early summer. The main fruit sets on the current season’s growth. Once all the foliage has dropped for winter, you will want to prune out all the dead, damaged or diseased wood as well as any spoiled fruit that may still be hanging on the tree.

Dormant Tree & Plant Guarantee: 

We guarantee that trees that are shipped dormant will leaf out the following spring if you follow our growing and handling instructions.  Any dormant tree that does not leaf out can qualify for a refund if you submit a claim by May 15^th.  All deciduous fruit trees, persimmons and jujubes need to be planted in the ground by April 1^st to qualify for replacement, unless you are in area where the ground is still frozen at that time.  

In the rare event that your dormant tree/plant has not leafed out by May 1st, please perform a “scratch test” to check for green under the bark.  Just beneath the dry, outer layer of bark in a tree's trunk lies the cambium layer.  In a living tree, this is green; in a dead tree, it is brown and dry. To perform a “scratch test”, scratch off the top layer of bark in a small spot on a branch and on the trunk.  Be sure to do 1 test above the graft union, and a 2nd just below the graft union.  If the scratch test reveals a brown cambium, that means your tree/plant is dead or dying. 

To qualify for a refund, you must submit a claim via email to cs@fourwindsgrowers.com by no later than May 15^th.  Please include your order number in the subject line of your email.  

Claims must include:

-Photos of the scratch test areas

-Your order number

-Name(s) of trees affected.    

We will review your claim and if approved, we will issue you a refund for the purchase price of your dormant tree (excluding shipping).  We reserve the right to not issue a refund for items that have already been replaced.