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Anna Apple Tree

 
$54.00
+ Gift Wrapping
VARIETY INFO
SHIPPING
TREE SIZE
 

Sold out for the 2025 Season. We will have bareroot fruit trees available again for pre-order in Fall 2025 and they will be shipped starting January 2026. 

 

Anna Apple- Variety Information 

  • The Anna Apple tree is one of few varieties to take advantage of low-chill climates like the warmer Southwest, Gulf Coast, and even Florida.
  • Fresh Anna apples are firm and crisp with a pleasant sweetness.
  • Light yellow-green skin covered by a red blush.
  • The tree yields heavy crops of sweet, crisp, apples with creamy colored flesh.
  • Great for eating fresh and baking, and will store up to 2 months in the refrigerator.
  • The Anna apple tree is a great choice for mild climates, and will produce flavorful apples even in the low desert.
  • This variety is particularly noted for heavy crops.
  • Self-pollinating- but fruiting will be improved if there is a Ein Shemer or Dorsett Golden nearby.
  • Apples are generally late blooming.
  • USDA Zone 5-10, Requires 200 chill hours to set fruit.
  • Protect when temperatures fall below -20°F.
  • Approximate harvest period: July.
  • Grafted onto M106 semi-dwarf rootstock.
  • Click here to view "Fruit Tree Rootstock Information"
  • Click here to view our "Fruit Tree Variety Chart"
  • This tree is shipped dormant and bare-rooted.
  • Please see our "Dormant Tree & Plant Guarantee" below

 

Tips:

  • Needs full sun, well-drained soil, and moderate fertility.
  • Thin fruit to maximize quality and size.
  • To maximize pollination, plant a different variety of the same fruit nearby.
  • Three or more varieties are best. Harvest 3rd year.
  • Grow in USDA Zones 5-10

 

What is a Bare Root Fruit Tree?

A Bare root fruit tree is a 2-3 year old fruit tree which has gone dormant for the winter. It is delivered to you without soil. The best time to plant bare root fruit trees is the end of the winter season. This gives your tree time to acclimate to it's environment before the warmth of spring comes.

 

Click here for our Bare Root Fruit Tree Growing Guide (pdf)
Guia de cultivo para un arbol de raiz desnuda

 

 

  • Optimize Shipping:Shipping is calculated by box size. We can fit up to 8 bare-root fruit trees in a box. Multi-budded fruit trees and Jujube trees will count as 2 due to branching. Optimize your shipping by ordering multiple trees.
  • No customer pick-up
  • We can ship our "Other Edibles" (non-citrus plants) and growing accessories to most states, including Alabama, Texas, Arizona or Florida. 
  • Sorry, we do not ship any items to the US Virgin Islands, Guam, Puerto Rico or to API/APO addresses, or to other countries at this time.
  • Click here for Shipping Information


 

Bare Root:

  • The trees are approximately 2 years old.
  • Our trees are measured by trunk caliper.
  • Trunk size may vary slightly based on availability during the season.
  • The average trunk size is 1/2"-5/8".

All of our bare root fruit trees will come pruned so that the reduced root mass is balanced with the canopy to maximize grower success. Our bare root fruit trees are headed back to fit in the 60" tall box that they will ship in. Branches are seldom removed during this process unless dead or damaged and are only reduced to fit the tree in the box so that the grower can decide what branches to keep or remove. This is done in a way that will allow the home grower to continue to grow the tree as a central leader or prune the tree to an open center.

 

 The tree will be shipped dormant (no leaves) and bare-rooted.

How to Grow

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Location

Location is key to the overall success of the tree and the quality of the fruit. Fruit trees prefer a location that has full sunlight exposure. Potted fruit trees are all grafted on hardy rootstocks to give you the best chances of success in a variety of soil types and climates. Choose a location that receives 8-10 hours of direct sunlight per day. This location should have well-draining soil.

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Planting

Prepare your planting site by digging a hole about twice the volume of your tree pot. If you notice that your soil is very hard, now would be the ideal time to perform a drainage test. You can test your soil drainage by filling the hole with water. If the hole takes more than 2 hours to drain completely then your soil is poor draining and will need to be amended. If your location is heavy in clay soil that drains poorly, consider mounding up above the native soil with compost and mulch and then planting in your well-draining mound. Once the hole has been dug, backfill with a 50/50 mix of compost and native soil so that the tree can sit flush with the native soil level.

Once your hole is prepped, you will want to press the tree pot sides and gently remove the tree from its container. Once removed, gently loosen the sides & bottom of the root mass with your hands. Then place the tree in the planting hole and backfill with more of your 50/50 compost and native soil mix. This mix is important to create a buffer zone of soil that is easy for your tree to root into while also introducing the roots to your native soil.

Now that your new tree is planted, it is time to give the trees a thorough soak. This step is very important to close any air gaps that may have been created while backfilling the tree.

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Post Planting Tree Care

Prune the canopy of your tree at this time. The goal here is to have a canopy that is roughly as large as your root mass. By balancing the root mass with the canopy, you will see much less dieback on your branches and a higher success rate with your new tree. If you want the fruiting wood to begin low, smaller trees may be cut back at planting time to a height as low as the knee (15-20 inches). Any remaining side limbs should be cut back to one or two buds. Larger trees may be cut above existing well-placed low limbs, or they too may be cut back low to force new, lower limbs. If this step is skipped, you will likely see low vigor from the first season, dieback from these long branches, or even complete failure to break dormancy.

Protect the trunk of your tree from sunburn, pests, and insects with IV Organics Plant Guard tree paint and foliar spray. Paint your newly planted tree from the ground up. This step is particularly important for our growers in the southwest where the climate and the intense sun tends to damage trees.

Spread 3"- 5” of wood chips or straw over the bare ground. Keep mulch away from the trunk to prevent the trunk from rotting. This insulating blanket will keep the roots of the trees warm and growing and prevent freezing and thawing of the soil. It will also keep the roots of the trees cool and moist through summer.

Stake trees that stand over 3' tall or in very windy areas for at least a year until their roots grab a firm hold of the soil. Tie the trunk to one or two stakes set beside the tree, using some soft material or padded wire. Allow for some movement of the trunk.

Keep your circle of mulch weed-free for at least a few years, adding more mulch as needed.

With proper planting and care, new buds will soon push out and your tree will start its journey! If your tree does not break dormancy by May, you will want to check for signs of life on your tree. One of the best ways to determine if a tree or any plant is dead is the scratch test. With your nail, gently scratch off the top layer in a small spot on a branch or on the trunk. Just beneath the dry, outer layer of bark in a tree's trunk lies the cambium that transfers nutrients throughout the tree. In a living tree, this is green; in a dead tree, it is brown and dry.

If the tree is green and still living, stop watering for the next 14 days. Bare root trees have no leaves and no way to expel excess water. If your tree is dead or does not push after 14 days, contact your grower for more guidance.

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