Growing Citrus in the Ground

Growing dwarf citrus trees in the ground can be immensely rewarding, and it naturally produces the biggest and most vigorous specimens. However, before planting a citrus tree in the ground, you must determine whether or not the location you have in mind will provide a suitable home for your new dwarf citrus tree.

On this page:

How Will It Look? | Climate | Location
Soil | Planting | Watering | Fertilizer | Mulches
Suckering | Thorns | Pruning | Pollination | Espaliering
Beneficial Insects | Pest Insects | Frost

How Will Citrus Look In My Yard?

Sometimes people aren't quite sure about using citrus as a landscape plant. In fact, citrus work extraordinarily well in most any landscape, offering beautiful evergreen foliage, lovely (and fragrant) blossoms, and colorful fruit. If you'd like to see some examples of successful landscape plantings, take a look at our landscaping slide show.

Climate
In general, ground-planted citrus trees are happiest in warm, temperate areas. Some varieties are much more frost-tolerant than others. For information on a specific variety, please refer to our hardiness table.

Location
A sunny, frost- and wind-free location with southern exposure is best. (If in doubt, leave the tree in its plastic container and place it in the spot you have in mind. Water as needed. After a week or two, you should be able to tell whether or not it's happy.) Reflected heat from sidewalks, walls, driveways, or other structures can also help to create a warmer "microclimate." Avoid lawns that get frequent, shallow waterings. Don't crowd your tree, for even though it is a dwarf, it will need room for its eight-foot ultimate size.

Soil
Citrus trees are famous for tolerating a wide variety of soils, including clay. However, good drainage is essential, as citrus trees can't survive standing water for long. To test your drainage, dig a hole 30" deep where you would like to place the tree. Fill with water to saturate the soil. The next day refill it with water. Your drainage is OK if the water level drops 2" in two hours. If the water does not drain, plant your tree in a raised bed or dig a deeper hole and then amend the soil as described in the following paragraph.

Soils rich in humus are best. For heavy or poor soils, we recommend digging a large hole and filling it back in, half with the best of the original soil, and half with a good-quality amendment mix. Plant the root ball high to allow it room to settle over time. (The upper roots can be slightly visible.)

Planting
If the plant is growing in a container, gently invert the plant and container to remove the soil ball intact. Squeezing the sides of the plastic pot can help to loosen the soil and roots. After removing the plant, take note of the abundant fibrous root system. Straighten out any circling roots before planting. Cut off and remove any broken roots. Amend your planting hole as described above. Do not add fertilizer to the soil as you're backfilling your hole; however, you can apply some to the soil surface after planting. Be sure to tamp soil lightly as you go and water plant thoroughly after planting to eliminate air pockets. Finally, you should stake the tree until well-established, tying the trunk lightly to a stake while leaving room for the trunk to expand. Green plant tie is a good choice for tying trees to stakes.

The best time of day to plant in summer is early morning. Try to keep the roots out of the sun as much as possible. Keep the roots moist, and water well once transplanted. In winter, time of day is not as critical. Temperatures above freezing would be advised for outdoor transplanting.

You may wish to pinch off fruit and blossoms for the first year or two after a new planting, to encourage stronger root and branch development.

Watering
Consistency is the key with citrus watering! As with so many plants, citrus trees require soil that is moist but never soggy. How often to water will vary with soil porosity, tree size, and temperature. Allowing the top of the soil to dry slightly is OK. A simple moisture meter, available at garden supply stores, will read moisture at the root level. Take it from us -- this inexpensive tool will become your best friend! You'll never again have to guess about whether or not a plant needs water.

A wilted tree that perks up within 24 hours after watering indicates the roots got too dry. Adjust watering schedule accordingly. A tree with yellow or cupped leaves, or leaves that don't look perky AFTER watering can indicate excessive watering and soggy roots. Water less frequently.

Citrus prefer less frequent, deep waterings to frequent, shallow sprinklings. Creating a watering basin around the tree can aid in deep watering. As the tree grows, be sure to expand the basin as needed to keep it as wide as the spread of the branches. Deeper watering promotes deeper root growth and strengthens your tree. Generally, once-a-week watering works well for in-ground plantings. Be sure to adjust based on weather conditions!

In general, it is probably best to water in the morning, but if plants are dry or wilted it is better to water them right away than wait until morning. See our watering page for more.

Fertilizer
Since citrus trees are heavy nitrogen feeders, make sure there is more nitrogen (N) than phosphorous (P) or potassium (K). Use at least a 2-1-1 ratio. Also important are trace minerals like iron, zinc, and manganese, so make sure those are included as well. Many all-purpose products will work. We prefer slow release fertilizers in the granular form rather than fertilizer stakes. Follow rates on the package carefully as fertilizers come in different strengths, release rates, and application schedules. Foliar applications of trace minerals in the form of kelp or other soluble fertilizers are effective on leaves when half their mature size. Yellowing leaves indicate lack of fertilizer or poor drainage.

Mulches
Liberal use of mulches will conserve precious water. Less water is needed as evaporation is reduced and weeds are inhibited. A 2-3 inch layer of redwood shavings, fir bark, compost, or other organic matter will help with water retention, while gravel or crushed rock will reflect heat and hasten fruit ripening. To avoid root diseases, do not allow grass to grow under the tree's canopy, and keep mulch at least six inches away from the tree trunk.

Suckering
Know where the graft union in on your tree. It can usually be seen as a diagonal scar between 4 and 8 inches from the soil. Remove all shoot growth below the graft. These so-called "suckers" take vitality from the top of the tree (the fruiting wood). Especially on young trees, they are very vigorous. Remove suckers as soon as they are observed. See photos.

Thorns
Thorns are removed from rootstocks when they are grafted. Juvenile fruiting wood will sometimes have thorns; this is a young plant's way of defending against grazing animals. As the tree matures, thorns will not appear as often. Prune off thorns if desired.

Pruning
Citrus may be pruned to any desired shape. Pruning is fine any time of year, except in the winter for outdoor trees. Pinching back tips of new growth is the best way to round out the trees without impacting future fruit.

Citrus will look fuller with occasional pruning to shape leggy branches. Very leggy branches indicate the need for more light.

Some trees may develop erratic juvenile growth above the graft. If so, prune for shape and balance. Any growth above the graft can eventually bear fruit.

Pollination
Citrus are self-pollinating, even indoors. Some people enjoy pollinating their trees and can do so by using a small soft brush or cotton swab to transfer pollen among the flowers.

Espaliering
Four Winds Dwarf Citrus can be trained to grow on trellises like vines or in more formal designs. Simply use green garden ties to hold branches in place.

Beneficial Insects
Not all insects are bad! Spiders, lady beetles, lacewings, and preying mantids (praying mantis) are some of the beneficial insects you may see around citrus trees outdoors. You can even buy some of these predator insects in local nurseries for release in your garden.

Pest Insects
Keep your tree free of ants. They will farm scales or aphids, moving them from place to place, milking their secretions, and protecting them from beneficial insects. Ant baits may be helpful.

If you find harmful insects like scales, aphids, or mites, a household spray bottle of water with some mild dish soap could be all you need. If insects persist, the usual nursery treatment is a 1% solution of light horticultural oil. Learn more.

Frost
Even temperate locations can drop below freezing, so it's good to have a plan in mind for that eventuality. Christmas lights strung around your tree will provide some protection, as will an antitranspirant like Cloud Cover. A frost blanket, loosely draped over and around the tree, will also help. Learn more.

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